A: If you are having a hard time finding pyramid parts, you're not alone. In Germany, you can just walk into your local hardware store and buy pyramid parts to your heart's content. In the states, you have to be a little more creative. Here is a blog post that I did using readily available alternatives. There are some great online resources, or you can be creative and build your own parts. Check out Christ-kindl Market or search the internet for German Pyramids to gather ideas for assembling your pyramid. Check out my blog at for some more tips on building your pyramid.

A: Originally, these patterns were designed for scrollsaw work only. They may be cut out using any method, however the patterns may need some fine tuning to work with a laser cutter. If you do plan to mass produce more than 50 projects per pattern, please contact me directly and I will assist you in obtaining permission from Volker Arnold to mass produce these items.

A: Of course you may purchase single patterns, but in my experience, you’ll be back for the rest of the patterns, because they are so good. I am in the process of adding individual patterns to our website, but if there is one that you are particularly interested in that is not currently listed, please email me and I can provide you with a price quote.

A: I almost exclusively use Baltic Birch or Oak Plywood. I prefer to work with 1/8” - 1/4” stock depending on the project. Poplar looks nice, but as a hardwood it doesn’t have the strength of plywood, so be cautious in using it on delicate cuts. Also keep in mind that minor adjustments to the patterns may be necessary to account for wood thickness where there are joints.

A: I have tried several blades, and the ones that outlast all the others and provide the best cut for me are the Flying Dutchman Blades. They last twice as long as other blades I use, and stay sharper resulting in cleaner cuts and not many burn marks on the wood. I use #5 Reverse tooth blades to help reduce the finishing time on the back sides of the projects. Where there are very small holes or veins in the pattern, I will use the smallest drill bit I can find and use a #2/0 blade to start the cut. Once the cut has been started, I will usually switch back to using the #5 blade to make the vein look a little bigger or to have better control of the blade. Sometimes the #2/0 blade tends to wander a little more than the #5 blade. I have also used his round blades, spiral blades, and the superior puzzle blades and found them to be of great use in my shop.

A: Paypal is incredibly safe, and even I don’t have access to your financial information by using this method. However, if you are still uncomfortable and would like to pay with a check, that is perfectly fine. Just keep in mind that the check must clear prior to obtaining the patterns so there may be a 2 week delay over using the Paypal method.

A: Volker is in Germany, so there are occasionally times when the patterns that he uses are intended for A3 paper (dimensions?). I usually print the patterns out at 100% on regular 8.5” x 11” paper. This is fine for the majority of Volker’s projects. Prior to cutting out any of his large pyramids or larger projects, I would recommend creating a paper or cardboard template just to ensure that you have a feel for how his projects are assembled. It will ease your mind and help with envisioning how the project will look. I have tried this a few times and it has saved me lots of time and material and sometimes I even get an idea of how to improve upon the project or design.

A: I always hit the local craft stores right around the holidays (the week after you can get some great discounts on lights too). I try to get short strings of lights that use a couple of AA batteries to avoid having to plug it in to the wall and cuts down on the tangled mess of cords. I am looking into the possibility of providing these as kits as well as pyramid parts if I can find a good supplier, so check back often to see if we are able to arrange this.